Belorado

Finally managed to get to a 3G phone reception area and fixed the date/
time on the posts so that they reflect what's happening. Hopefully.

A lovelly and very cool morning start today. Kept my jumper on for
the first 10km which is most unusual. Quite warm once the sun came out.

Long straight and a bit boring walk today. Method for long, straight
hills: shorten stride, keep steady pace, think of cool drink at top of
hill. On reaching top of hill: take swig of warm water, catch breath
and mop brow, then pause to admire how much bigger the next hill is.
Repeat.

Reached Belorado just before 2.00pm, decided to go straight to Plaza
Mayor for refreshments before consulting guide about accommodation.
Had decided I wanted more than an albergue tonight, settled on Hotel
Jacobeo - reasonable rates, friendly hosts, comfortable rooms but
quite noisy.

Cheers
John

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More On Santa Domingo de Calzada

The photo shows the inner workings of the clock on the 70m church
tower, naturally I had to climb the tower (1.50€) to gain the full
views of S.D.de C.

I had heard about the nun's Vespers but couldn't communicate well
enough to find out about them. The Cathedral and attached museum were
worthwhile visits - so much history.

A chilly night at the alburgue ended with all peregrinos required to
be on the road by 7.45am. Fortunately this time coincides (just) with
first light at this time of year.

Cheers
John

Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Monday

An easy 20ish km today, back with the peregrino crowd. Decided to
stay at the smaller albergue here, at the Cistercian Abbey. I was the
first in as most are going on to the main albergue.

My decision yesterday to stay in bed after my siesta paid off as I am
much better today. But it meant I missed dinner so it was 24 hours
before I could get anything to eat. My energy levels were much better
after a chorizo roll at Ciruena.

After a refreshing shower, I've just lunched on calamares and salad.
Later I will visit the museum at the Cathedral.

Cheers
John

Yuso and Suso, Sunday Sep 28

Another beautiful sunny day. Walked from Berceo to San Millan in
sandals to give my feet a change. The lower ticket office at Yuso has
tickets for the upper monastery (Suso) while the upper ticket office
has tickets for the lower monastery (Yuso). Worked it out eventually.

First, I caught the shuttle up to Suso and enjoyed the amazing
antiquity of the place. Then took the gorgeous 20 minute walk back
down to Yuso - seemed to be the only one doing so..

The church at Yuso is undergoing an extensive restoration but is still
impressive. The guided tour is quite extended and gives plenty of
time to appreciate the place.

Yuso has a website: www.monasteriodeyuso.org

The place was overrun with Mercedes 4wd cars, they had stayed the
night at the 4star hotel - naturally.

For those who don't know, I am writing this blog using one finger
typing on my mobile phone. Slow but it gets the job done - please
excuse the typos.

The niggling cold that I've had for a few days is now full blown, so
will run it's course soon (hopefully). I'm in bed for a siesta now -
may not bother getting up until tomorrow.

Haven't seen any peregrinos here but will rejoin them tomorrow at
Santo Domingo de Calzada.

One great piece of news is that Jim, who walked the camino with Gen
and I for a while in 2007, will be in Spain in October. We hope to
catch up for a meal - I really hope we can manage to get together.
Seeing friends is always good - seeing them so far from home is very
special.

Cheers
John

Cañas and Berceo

Saturday Sep 27

It's a beautiful warm sunny arvo as I sit on the balcony drinking
water. The bar has closed for siesta.

Left Najero this morning after a surprisingly good nights rest. But
the albergue was a bit of a shocker, two toilets and two showers per
gender, just not enough room for so many people.

Cultivated one blister yesterday, so a slowish walk to Azofra for
breakfast, where I said farewell to Bill. My Irish dinner companion
has limited time so is pushing on. We had enjoyed a couple of drinks
in Najera, a nicebloke.

Lots of peregrinos on the path, including many 'daypackers' -
supported walkers. Then turned off the Camino toward Cañas to see the
Cistercian abbey, very impressive. Then a hard 10km slog in the sun
to Berceo. Totalled about 22km today.

I'm booked into a superb Casa Rural for 40€ per night, all else was
booked out because a San Millan supporters group have their big day
today. Lots of big mercs and such on the road, the supporters group
appears to be well healed.

Managed to get a booking for 1055 tomorrow to see the monasteries (a
booking is required). Needed a second night here as not enough time
to walk to anywhere else afterwards.

Have been told three times now that my English is hard to understand -
must be the Aussie accent. Tho my Spanish is worse.

Am quite looking forward to the monasteries tomorrow, also keen on
something to eat and drink now but must wait till the bar/restaurant
reopens.

Cheers
John

Najera Friday Sep 26

Just to clarify, a date is applied when the system received messages.
So the San Matteo festival in Logrono was on Thursday.

On Friday, I walked to Najera. I had intended to stop in Ventosa but
missed a sign, then missed Ventosa and was thoroughly lost. New road
works and a non-Camino way marker may have been the problem. One
bonus was meeting Bill, an Irish peregrino who was similarly miss
guided.

Bill and I found our way but continued on as there was no point in
going back to Ventosa. We walked a bit more than the posted 30km for
this section.

We stayed in the municipal albergue with 70 people in one room. Noisy
and crowded and not the best choice. But slept OK after a good dinner.

Cheers

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San Mateo in Logrono

With my now usual ability, I arrived in Logrono to find the San Mateo
wine festival in full swing. The fireworks at midnight were awesome,
they shook the albergue violently.

The main albergue was full, completo, so I was sent to the Albergue
Paroquial, a wonderful happenstance. Is was a tiny place, attached to
the church. A three course meal was provided by 'Nuria' - a fabulous
volunteer. Then a private tour of the church and a peregrino blessing
by the multilingual priest.
Cheers
John

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New Phone Number

I've swapped to a Movistar SIM as couldn't get any help from Vodafone
to gain email/Internet access - hope this works.

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The Parade

One advantage of staying in an hotel on Las Ramblas was a front seat
during the grand parade.

La Merce

Today is La Merce or the feast of Our Lady of Mercy, one of the patron
saints of Barcelona. This explains the papier mâché giants that are
everwhere, the fireworks and explosions, the bands of musicians and
the twelve priests celebrating mass this morning. All up a wonderful
day.

The crowds are a bit intimidating so I am using a trick to cope with
them. I try to visualize the happy people in the crowded airport
scenes from the film Love Actually. The film scenes show the joy of
families and friends re-uniting at an airport arrivals terminal. This
puts me into a much better frame of mind.

The train for Logrono leaves at midday tomorrow and gets to Logrono
just before 7.00pm. Hope to stay in the municipal alberque - hope I
won't be too late.

Haven't resolved internet access for my phone yet. Vodafone's offices
are closed for the public holiday and their multilingual helpline is
batting nought for two at responding to my calls (they claim they
will ring you back .....). So not sure when I will be able to post
next.
Cheers
John

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Feast Day In Barcelona

Miercoles. Barcelona is jam packed! It's the feast day of the local
patron saint, a beautiful day and a public holiday as well.

Barcelona

First day in Spain. Hadn't slept in over 36 hours since leaving
Sydney. The crowds in Barcelona are amazing as always. The bus from
the airport was only 4.04€, really cheap and easy. It's raining but
managed to get a train ticket to Logrono for Thursday for 34€. Also
found a cheap Spanish sim card but no Internet access - promised but
not delivered, so I'll try to sort that today. Slept well overnight
but awake at 5.00am so using the hotels free wifi to send this
update. Staff at the Hotel Continental have been really helpful.
Cheers

Singapore Airport

The 8 hour flight from Sydney to Singapore was a little bumpy but with
two seats to myself I was quite relaxed. The usual great service on
Singapore Airlines.
Then it got interesting, I had tried to book a room in the Transit
Hotel to get a shower and a rest. No room booked or available.
So, with 10 hours before lift-off for Barcelona I looked around for
alternatives. The Transit Lounge offers showers so I went there and
had a shower and a massage. The first professional massage I've ever
had!
The Singaporean masseur was huge and strong and knew his job. I'm not
sure if the kneading and pummelling was much different from being
beaten-up, but my muscles know something happened! And it feels good
so far.
Then a call from home, I'd left the Internet security set at paranoid
level. So, a few instructions were required to get home back on-line.
Only 3 phone calls needed.
Missing Gen already but determined to carry on. Just the 13 or 14
hour flight to Barcelona to survive tonight.
Serendipity or coincidence? I'm now in a bar in Singapore watching
Barcelona play football somewhere in Spain. Cheers

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A Not So Quiet Sunday

A bright and sunny day in Sydney, 23C. Circular Quay packed with
people for the Sydney Marathon. Visited the Barracks Museum for a bit
of Australia's history. Fish and chips and a cold beer for lunch. My
gluten-free diet well and truly busted, as it will be in Spain. I'm
resigned to paying the price for eating normal foods while in Spain -
hopefully it will take several weeks before I get really sick again.
We are having a quiet afternoon before dinner at The Rocks as Gen has
some work to get through. Cheers

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A Warm Send-Off From Sydney

We had a good run down to Sydney, and then a lovely lunch at Circular
Quay. But it's 30+ degrees centigrade, phew! Visited the Police &
Justice museum, fascinating but gruesome. The photo is from our hotel
room balconey at The Sir Stamford, toward Circular Quay.

Spain Beckons Again

Gen and I are driving to Sydney tomorrow (Saturday) so that I can jump
on a plane for Barcelona on Monday. Although Gen has recovered fairly
well from knee surgery, long hikes with a backpack out of the question
for the moment.

So, next week I'll be setting off alone from Logrono on the path to
Santiago and Finisterre. I must admit I'm excited and looking forward
to a couple of days in Barcelona first - not looking forward to the
flight though.

Gen has been tremendously generous and supportive. Although I'm sure
that she too would love to return to Spain, her job and knee have made
that a bit too difficult.

Only One More Day To Pack

Tomorrow, Friday, will be my last day to sort out my backpack. So far
I've reduced the total weight to 10.5kg, must try again as under 10kg
is my target. The biggest worry at this stage is all the reports of
bedbugs on the Camino,so I'll spray my sleeping bag and silk sheet
with permethrin to try and keep them out. John

Lake Tuggeranong

Another morning hike with fully loaded backpack in preparation for the
real thing.

Seven Days To Go

Only seven days till I leave Australia for Spain.

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